Sunday, November 14, 2010

Snapshots of Egypt


Yes, it seems strange to come back to my blog after so long. But the next series of posts are worth this comeback, though I may not even be scratching the surface.
Egypt - it may remind you of your history books, of movies with so called 'treasure hunts' and pots of gold or of Ben Fraser battling the mystical powers of a high priest. But these stereotypical images are just that -stereotypes. They no where represent the rich and heady past of Egypt (still shrouded with mystery in places), and a present, which is a charming mix of what could be symbols of 'modernity' and 'tradition'. I cringe to make such a distinction, but the locals accept and showcase what they call as 'Oriental' culture -one of the first things which had us confused. For Indians, the 'Oriental' would be the Chinese/Japanese culture, but the Egyptians (along with other Middle East countries) know themselves as 'Orientals'. They know that is more than 75% European tourists like to see. The next few series are my impressions of the country and the capital, Cairo, of its local culture, of the past and of its present times.
Strangely, we were warned by people who've been to the country -beware of getting fleeced, beware of hassling, and of scams! And we found some of those reactions were exaggerated. Of course they must have been based on certain experiences. But we found most locals to be simple, warm and friendly. They may seem aggressive initially. But all you need to do is be polite and firm with the hasslers. Refuse help if extended. Smile and say no. Or completely ignore -and you shall be fine. Seek out those who don't pay you much attention -they are the ones who will give you real help, when you need. Tourism is one of the prime industries in this country and locals themselves do not earn much on their own. It is insightful to see the clever ways they find to make money, but you too need to be smart. Of course, it becomes all the more important to regulate a few, but overall it isn't as bad as you will find in most guide books and websites.

El-Souk, Luxor
They are curious people with an innate sense of humour. The language barrier does not matter. One of our cabbie drivers did not know any English. Our frantic signs and attempts to speak in slow and broken English did not evoke any response. The only word we did get out of him was a suprising one: "Kentack" ("Kentucky") -the only word he probably knew in English. One of the ever-smiling waiters proved this again, despite not knowing English. He serves soda and commands the fizz to "Stop!". (And it does!)
We were even rechristened "India!" by many shopkeepers - an adjective which stuck with us till the end of the seven day trip! "India come here" "India, 2 pound for you, not 5". We were from the land of Amitabh Bachhan, Shah Rukh Khan and Rani Mukherji. Though nothing worth buying was ever 2 pound, we quickly learned. Cannily enough, as soon as you entered the shop, they became 2 British pound, not Egyptian!
In their heart, they are non-Cairo people are extremely laidback. A sheesha and hibiscus drink is all they needed to feel happy again. Music - just about anybody can break into one of their folk tunes. You see rich colors everywhere -in the souks or bazaars, the mosques or even the cuisine. And it all grows on you. The more you see, the more you want to stay.



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