Monday, March 9, 2009

Ladies Coupe

Someone once told me, “You cannot get lost in Mumbai. All you need to do is head to the nearest local station! And you shall find your way from there.” It was a useful piece of advice back then.


I have come to realize now trains in Mumbai are much more than what they seem.


I remember feeling terrified every time someone mentioned about traveling in Mumbai trains. This was when I had just shifted to the city. It probably came from that one bad experience I had had almost four years ago, of being almost crushed amidst smelly, strange men in a general compartment in a Borivali local, at the peak evening hours. That incident alone was enough to unnerve me.


I can gladly and proudly say I have come a long way from there. Not only have I become quite an expert in traveling by locals now, I sort of even enjoy them. Off course, I try and still avoid the peak hours. But no other public transport could be this convenient as are the local railways!


One of my favorite past times while traveling in trains is to look at people. I have no qualms of admitting my experiences are limited to the ladies coupe, but those are a universe in itself! There is a distinct world within, as it is without. And you shall be enveloped as soon as you step into one.


You shall find all kinds of women here: the hoity ones, the housewives, the working women with ear phones, college students, women carrying fish-smelling baskets, utensils, kids and the hijras. For the entrepreneurs, Mumbai locals are a paradise. From stitched Gujarati fabrics to knick knacks, from trinkets to veggies and snacks: making life simple for women hustling to reach their destinations.


Gaze through the wide range of posters and adverts put up on the brown rusty walls. Some of them are as enchanting as the people themselves. Here are few examples:


Call ********** for housemaids/ governess/ etc

Have problems planning your finances? Call ********

Mardon mein masti bhar de… (Makes your man naughtier.)

For placements call ******** No sales or door-to-door marketing job guaranteed!

Want to lose weight? Call ********

Dil tera diwana hain sanam,Khata hun main 'Stay on' ki kasam.. (hilarious one)


I could go on and on, but truth of the matter is, the locals are not just a mode of transport. Call me a romantic, but for me it is a microcosm of what Mumbai represents. Its colours are as vibrant as the variety of make up you shall see on the women, and in different stages. You shall make friends here and even some enemies. But there’s one thing common in them: they are all in a hurry. They are all busy to reach somewhere. And they might just push you aside if you are caught day dreaming. They do not have the time. They are too busy doing what they need to do.


The city would come to a standstill if these wheels were to ever stop. Come incessant rains or the scorching summers, these wheels not only reduce the vast spaces to few minutes, but also represent the day to day struggle, that is aamchi Mumbai.

5 comments:

  1. Dear Indrani,
    loved this article of urs.... the personifiacatiobn of a city through its people... like d way mentioned there are so many dimenisons encircling within... about the advertisements perspective, d struggles of everyday heroes (my own romantic angle)... ilked your visual despricipation and what abt d local train itself.... it also enchants me so much.... symbolism of integrity, diversity or a loving giant immune to all dicriminations.... please write more on ur Mumbai exploration.... d diversity la, language, ur interactions and many more..... ( wat abt a traveler's peek.... stories or may be sum bussieness plans (jst kidding dear) your article ws really thought provoking....waiting for more. - Sohini

    ReplyDelete
  2. Oh yes Sohini... am loving every moment of discovering Mumbai! Its not only the sense of freedom, but the cosmopolitan culture of Mumbai which I affirm with.

    ~Indrani

    ReplyDelete
  3. hey dat was a good but an unbelievable cum indigestible piece for at least me!! somebody has said that our life is what we perceive it to be...i really like ur narration and perception of the local train journey...but i think there is a tinge of exaggeration and too much romanticism also involved therein....i wish life had been so colorful and romantic as u have narrated here.

    ReplyDelete
  4. Thanks for writing Chandni! I do not intend to romanticize and exaggerate the experience, but there are millions of people for whom the locals take them to their place of livelihood. Jumping off or hopping on to moving trains, pushing people just to get out, standing crushed among hordes of strangers.. these are not parts i particularly like either. But people have to do this as well, often at the cost of losing lives or just getting hurt. What i chose to write about are facts too.. Life in Mumbai is a struggle, especially for those of us, who are are not used to crowds. Mumbai locals are part of this struggle.

    Having said that, they are as much an essence of travelling in Mumbai, as is sitting in BEST buses for hours. People travel in trains simply because they have to. But they ALSO make friends on the way.

    What do u think?

    ReplyDelete
  5. I agree with your point..but then such essence will be there in every city in various forms and nature. What I still have not understood is why do people glorify Mumbai's local trains or its chawls for that matter. I think its a pretty normal affair and trait like any system in any city.

    ReplyDelete